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«Drop Pod Assembly Hints General: Here’s my modified drop pod, I hope you have fun with them! Feel free to customize, with all the options there’s ...»

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Drop Pod Assembly Hints


Here’s my modified drop pod, I hope you have fun with them! Feel free to customize, with all the

options there’s already about 1,000,000,000,000,000,000,001+ ways to build it (roughly, yes I did the

math, but it’s an estimate), so hopefully it’ll be easy to make it ‘yours.’

 Check out the models and scale before printing, some Thingiverse stuff ends up different on

different printers/software/etc.

 I have way too many options, make sure you print the parts you need. For the different parts, like fins & doors in particular, you might want to try one version to see how well it prints/assembles before doing all 5!

 Some options are mutually exclusive (command chair), so plan ahead.

 The “Drop Pod Assembly” files show some of the ways to assemble it, but that file has some older models for some of the bits/greebles, so I wouldn’t try printing from there.

 I’ve included both stl files and the skp file I used to build it from in case you want to tweak stuff.

 Lots of parts here, you might need to test stuff and clean edges or whatever. Make sure your fin fits before printing 50 for 10 drop pods   I used ABS (print Lego compatible stuff) on the open source Makerbot, PLA should be similar.

 Feel free to do your own things with it! You can mash up bits with some of the blank/template parts.

 Look for my Space Wolves and Ork Looted versions, and of course my designs on Thingiverse How to say thanks!

If you like the model, there’re two things I’d appreciate, you can consider them part of the license if you want.

#1 if you build it, or bits of it, I’d appreciate an “I made one”, preferably with pictures of your awesome paint job… In lieu of that, a pix of what happened after your dog tried to eat it.

#2 I got into 3D printing to help build my full size, working, Lego R2-D2. He’s cool & you’ll like him, so please check out his site at http://L3-G0.com and the videos at http://youtube.com/myL3G0. I get almost enough in ad revenue to keep me in filament, so I’d really appreciate if you tweet, post on Facebook, and otherwise share L3-G0’s videos with your friends.

My Thanks Thanks to everyone I grabbed parts from, but particularly Kushan77’s “Drop Pod” and outofstep’s “New Door” Drop Pod Parts List There are so many files here it can be really confusing, so I’ll start with a parts list. I’ll talk about each part in more detail later. The Required parts will get you a basic functional model, but likely you’ll want at least some of the Optional parts for greebles. Many parts have several versions to choose from.

Required 1 Bottom 1 Top Core 5 Fins 5 Doors


2-4 Rockets 1 Top Greeble 1 Control

–  –  –

Bottom File: “Drop Pod Bottom” “Drop Pod Bottom - Flat" – Alternate in case your printer doesn’t like the bottom details Choose one version, you need one per model. The “flat” version is identical, except that it doesn’t have the extra blocks on the bottom so it may print better on some machines. You’ll never notice the missing bottom detail. The flat version doesn’t need a raft, and if your bed’s sticky enough even the non-flat one might work without a raft. You could also use Kushan77’s original bottom if you’d prefer.

If you don’t use supports there’s a little to clean underneath on top of the bell, but that’s easier that supports.

Printing  Standard (.2mm layers.) High was ‘wavy’ for me, standard seemed to look better.

 Consider raft for non-flat version, the pads are hard to get to stick by themselves.

 No supports Modifications  Added some detail, eg: tread pattern on the top flat surface.

 Extended holes for door pins because the close tolerance to the fin slots was confusing Makerware’s slicer.

 Ran the side block greeble pads around the bottom a bit.

Top Core File: “Drop Pod Top Core” You need one per model. I printed standard on ABS (.2mm layers), no supports. I don’t have an alternate version, but you can use Kushan77’s original if you prefer the pentagonal bottom.

I intend to mount a “Top Greeble” on the bottom of it. The surface on the bottom is about 24mm in diameter, bigger than that and the fins will probably hit.

Printing  High (.2mm layers)  No Raft, no Supports Modifications  Rounded off the bottom part to see how it looks.

 Made the side details not as deep so it prints better without supports for me.

Fins File: “Drop Pod Fin” – Fin with separate recessed parts to print flat and to allow customization “Drop Pod Fin Pair” – Same pattern, two fins, lying on opposite sides “Drop Pod Fin – Damaged” – Fin with a hole on top, you’ll need brakes as well “Drop Pod Fin - Assembled” –Shows assembly of the “brake” parts, including alternate assembly ideas “Drop Pod Fin Spare Parts.zip” – Various individual parts in case one of the sets messes up, including blank brakes for customization.

You need five fins per model, they don’t have to all look the same, but plan ahead. Some or all of the fins could have the “brakes” opened or “closed”. If you open the “brakes”, use care, if they’re too far open, the door won’t clear!

Consider printing 2 lying on one side and 3 on the other side so that you assemble it with similarly printed sides facing each other. Kushan77’s fit the top core & bottom but don’t allow room for controls or harnesses.

The “brake” parts inserted into the fin probably need filed a hair on the ends to fit.

There are blank brake parts in the.zip so you can add your own greebles if you’d prefer. The fin is 4mm thick, the ‘brake’ bits are slightly thinner than 1mm (to allow for glue/fit back to back). If you want a fatter plug than my brakes you can extrude them bigger.

Printing  Standard (.2mm layers)  No supports or raft, unless you try the assembled version.

Assembling Look at the “assembled” STL file for a reference. The “long” and “short” brake pairs get glued back to back, or at an angle at the root, and then glued into the appropriate long and short slots on the fin.

Modifications This is the biggest difference from the original pod, mostly making room for an interior.

 Expanded void so the pod has more interior room now  Made both sides the same, original sides weren't mirror images.

 Other minor adjustments Doors File: “Drop Pod Door” – Basic Space Marine themed door “Drop Pod Door – Space Wolves” – Basic Space Wolves themed door “Drop Pod Door—Space Wolves Ripped” – Normal door with claw rips “Drop Pod Door – Space Wolves Fancy” – Includes banner/nameplate “Drop Pod Door – Space Wolves Skull” – Fancy door with skull “Drop Pod Door – Plain” – Mostly empty for you to customize “Drop Pod Door – Totally Blank” – Most greebles removed for you to customize Extras.zip includes the skull, eagle icon and wolf icon individually.

You need 5 doors, and there’s a huge list to choose from. You could have 4 plain ones and one with the Eagle for Space Marines, or all 5 marine ones, or wolves, or mix & match. I really like the ‘ripped’ one.

Doors have lots of space to customize. Try mashing in your own badge or something. Eventually I’ll do a Looted Ork version if you want to follow me.

One or two of my doors are a tad loose, if that is a problem I’ll use magnets to keep them up.

I used outofstep’s “new door”, but it still didn’t fit well for me, so I kind of redid the door. I extended the edges a hair and placed it on the assembled 3D model, then collided the edges to find where the door seal is.

The skull’s cheekbone is really fragile, so careful cleaning the supports from it.

I considered adding a tread, but since I needed the supports anyway I couldn’t figure out how to make that work and print reliably with the supports. So I just don’t completely clean off the supports and it looks fine.


 High (.1mm layers). Lower resolution starts making visible jaggies on the outer flat spots.

 Supports, no raft.

 Laying it with the inside down, then when you remove the supports, don’t completely clean it up, the results look like a tread pattern.

 Instead of printing the skull door, you could print the fancy door without the skull, and then printing the skull separately. It’s about 20mm long if you try that.

Modifications  Shrank door pin slightly  Reconstructed edge where it hits the fins and top pillar when closed.

 Made it symmetric, for some reason the left/right of the model I started with differed  Greebles!

Rocket Motors File: “Drop Pod Rocket” “Untrimmed Rocket” – If you want to place it differently or trim it yourself If you want rocket motors, you can arrange 1-4 or so of them in the bottom of the base. They’re kind of a pain to glue in. I printed in a different color for fun, hunting for re-entry type glow… Printing  High (1mm layers) is what I used  No raft or supports  I printed a dozen at a time, however 70% wanted to detach from the bed and cause a mess. It’s not much plastic and I didn’t want to trim a raft off, but you could use a raft since they’re so small.

Top Greeblie File: “Drop Pod Greeble” “Drop Pod Greeble (with base)” – May be easier to print.

“Single Small Crystal” Pick one. Hangs down from under the core, kind of like a light fixture. I printed on fluorescent green and plan to use a wash, maybe it can be part of the power system or something. I’d paint before gluing it in place.


 High (.1mm layers)  No supports or raft Center Control Pillar File: “Drop Pod Control Pillar Frame” – Center part to attach panels to.

“Drop Pod Control Pillar Controls” – Assortment of panels “Drop Pod Control Pillar Assembly” – Sample fit together “Drop Pod Control Pillar” – Source Sketchup file, not efficient to print but you can modify the patterns with your own stuff.

“Control Panel Spare Parts” – zip file with individual panels in case you want all the same type or more of one or whatever.

The control pillar needs 5 control panels of your choice. The pillar goes in the middle of the Drop Pod Base. Optionally you can have harnesses/arms between the pillar and one or more of the fins. There’s also room on the top for a 15mm diameter greeble. I’m thinking like a hemisphere display, perhaps a globe of the landing area, such a greeble is provided below.

Really the control detail is higher than your printer is likely to print perfectly, however it still likes pretty

good, just don’t expect it to look like the 3D model :)

There’s a blank panel in the Spare Parts zip in case you want to build your own (or have a blank pillar). If you do make your own, Makerware’s slicer is happier if the details are either flat on top of the panel, or if they’re merged with the panel. If you have bits in the interior it might do strange stuff.


 No rafts or supports  Frame prints well top-down on standard (.2mm layers)  Panels print best on high (.1mm layers), they have too much detail.

 The assembled version didn’t print well for me (which is why we have the version with a center frame and panels)  The controls assortment isn’t going to be exactly what you want/need, but it’s not much plastic to print an extra. However if you really want a bunch of one type or something look in the spare parts zip.

 WARNING: My harness SketchUp files have some sort of glitch that I can’t figure out, mostly because they’re so small. The STL files however are repaired and print fine.


Glue the panels to the center frame, and then glue the completed pillar to the middle of the space pod.

I’d probably paint the pod and control pillar individually before gluing. Then add a center greeble and arms or harnesses if you want those.

Control Pillar Greeble File: “Pillar Greeble” “Pillar Globe Greeble” “Single Small Crystal” There’s room on the top of the control pillar for a greeble, so pick one, make your own, leave it blank or put the wolf icon on it or something. The first one’s sort of a wavy hemisphere, I’m trying that in a fluorescent color. The single crystal could be a power source. The globe or hemisphere could be a planetary map on an attack display.

The space on top is about a 15mm diameter circle if you want to make or scale your own greeble to fit.

Depending on the detail, etc, you may want to paint it (or the rest of the model) before gluing the control pillar greeble in place.

Printing  I printed the crystal on standard (.2mm layers), but the globe/hemisphere need high (.1mm layers)  No rafts or supports were used.

 For an


display or power thing consider a fluorescent filament.

Harnesses &/or Arms File: “Drop Pod Harness” – Left/right pair of harnesses “Drop Pod Harness - Small Arms” – Left/right pair of arms “Drop Pod Harness - Larger Support” – Left/right pair of supports “Drop Pod Harness – Umbilical” – Left/right pair of harnesses with umbilical holes There are lots of options here, check out the “Drop Pod Assembly – Opened” file to see some examples.

Basically the harnesses or arms go between the corners pillar and the fins, so you can have 1-5 of them.

You can print 10 harnesses (5 pairs) and have a pretty full drop pod. However, the arms and harnesses are pretty much interchangeable, so you can replace a harness half with the arm or support opposite half for a more open effect. You could also print only arms and have 5 arms, or only a single pair and have a single attachment to the pillar. Use your imagination.

Additionally, the harness pair comes in a version with 1.8mm holes in top for ‘umbilical’ cords. You can run 1.75mm filament from the hole to elsewhere in the model/fin to look like an umbilical. Or you can just use the hole version with empty holes for a different detail effect.

Printing  High (.1mm layers) because they’re too small.

 Flat on their back, no supports or raft needed.

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